There are three kinds of Sweet flag
('Ayame' in Japanese) which blossom
between second part of May and second
part of June.
![]() Figure 1 Map of Nirayama to Nagaoka. The cradle of Hojyo Clan who created Kamakura's Samurai culture. |
Connection of Jofukuji Temple with Hojyo Clan Masamune Hojyo, the second son of The Eighth Aid to Shogun built the temple in 1289 to carry out his father's wishes, when he came back here from Kamakura. The temple belongs to Ohtani School of Johdo Shinshu now, and its head temple is Higashi Honganji Temple in Kyoto. Jofukuji Temple is dedicated to Amitabha. It is said that the temple was built in the place where once Jibutsudoh (Buddha House) and the governing office stood in which Tokiiye and Tokikata Taira, the ancestors of Hojyo Clan had worked as then government's officer in Heian Era. They were descendants of Emperor Kammu. The temple holds a mass for the war dead of 160,000 including both Japanese and Mongols when battling in Kamakura Era. Tokimune Hojyo, the Eighth Aid to Shogun made his first son Sadatoki donate 1,000 "Jizoes" (guardian deities of children) and made his second son Masamune donate transcription of "Issai-Kyo ( Sutra). Masamune asked Joshin Holy Priest, Superior the Second of Honganji Temple to teach him, and Joshin accepted it. Later in Kamakura, a great mourning mass for the war dead was held by high learned priests group who came throughout the country. After mastered Joshin's doctorin, Masamune traveled to propagate the thought of praying to Amitabha (the thought that one can go to paradise after his or her death, if one pray to Amitabha). Jofukuji Temple is Hojyo Clan's family temple After his father Tokimune died, Masamune left Kamakura, built this temple, and built graves of his parents under which he buried a part of their bones brought from Kamakura. He also built a grave of succsessive generations of Hojyo Clan here. Relation with Sohun Hojyo Sohun Hojyo who came to Nirayama and built a castle on a hill to live there helped the temple, and his grandchild Ujiyasu gave a certification document and supported that priests of Jofukuji Temple for going Honganji Temple in Osaka. Descendants of Hojyo Clan keep the temple even today. The survey of the historical relics here is cralifying the historical facts. I Pray Resident Priest Shumon Hojyo |
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Figure 2 Jofukuji, the Hojyo Clan's temple |
Figure 3 Tokimune Hojyo, his son Masamune and Masamune's wife sleep under these three graves. |
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Figure 4 The grave burys successive generations of Hojyo Family. |
The Temple's Relation With Hojyo Clan's Residence And Horigoe Palace It is said that the premises of Hojyo Clan's residence, who patronaged Yoritomo Minamoto for restoration of Genji (Minamoto) Clan and made the basis of Kamakura Shogunate spreaded wide area including Mt. Moriyama and Jofukuji Temple. In the map recording then Nirayama, you can see the names of "Gosho-no-Uchi " (Within Horigoe Palace in English), "Tsuki-Yama" (an Artificial Hill), "Naka-no-Shima" ( Middle Island), etc. And you can see marks of ramparts with clay, ditches, waterways, etc. in the premises of this temple. It is said that a new house in which Masako Hojyo, daughter of Tokimasa lived with Yoritomo Minamoto stood on this place. The way straight to east starting from this temple for Hirugakojima where banished Yoritomo by Taira Clan lived, while going to west was for the residence of Yoshitoki Hojyo, a younger brother of Masako situated on the opposite side bank of Kanogawa River. Accordingly, some historians presume this is the mark of the way called "Hojyo Street". In Muromachi Era, Shogun Yoshimasa Ashikaga dispatched his brother Masatomo in 1457 to Izu for defending Landlord Koga and Masatomo's Horigoe Palace was also situated in around Jofukuji Temple, by reusing a part of Hojyo Clan's residence. In all the premises of Hojyo's residence, fragments of earthen vessels and old tiles are excavated. |
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Figure 5 The time of blossom of lotus is July. You can see flowers of many variety of lotus species in the pots before Jyofukuji Temple. |
Figure 6 A flower of many species of lotus. |
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Horigoe Palace The power of Muromachi Shogunate naturally declined when the eighth Shogun Yoshimasa Ashikaga was on the seat, and powerful local clans in Kantoh District which was distant from Kyoto, the capital were apt to disobey the shogunate. For alleviating this, Yoshimasa made his young brother Masatomo go to Kamakura in Choroku Q i1458j to govern but he could not proceed there, because of the local clans' resistance. Masotomo could not but stop here, built Horigoe Palace, and waited for opportunity. Masatomo had constant trouble of his heir between his real eldest son Chachamaru and a child of wife after death of former wife. In 1491 soon after Masatomo's death due to sickness, the palace fell in disturbances, as Chachamaru killed his stepmother, his brother in law and a chief vassal. Taking advantage of the chance, Nagauji Ise Shinkuro (later Sohun Hojyo) in Kohkokuji Castle made sudden attack to kill Chachamaru. Thus Horigoe Palace which had lasted for thirty years disappeared to ash. This place was also cradleland of Hojyo Clan who exercised power as Aid to Kamakura Shogunate, accordingly old structures and relics in the end of 12th to 15th Century have been discovered by a few excavations since 1982. And at present, the place names which show the history still exist around here as "Gosansyo (meaning 'Room for Childbirth')", "Gosyo-no-Uchi ('Within Palace')", "Tsukiyama ('An Artificial Hill')",etc. March 1986 Educational Committee, Nirayama Town |
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Figure 7 Ganjyoju-In Temple. The First Aid to Shogun Tokimasa prayed the victory for subjugating Fujiwara Clan in Eastern North District before going to battle. |
Figure 8 The temple keeps only statue of Tokimasa. The grave burys him. |
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Explanation Yoritomo who was the eldest son of Genji (Minamoto) Clan defeated in "Heiji-no-Ran" (Battle of Heji) in 1160. He was fourteen years old then and was exiled to Hirugakojima here. He had lived here for twenty years until he raised force. Yoritomo's father-in-law Tokimasa built this temple, thanking victory of subjugating battle against Fujiwara Clan in Ohu District and named Ganjyoju-In. Unfortunately, the temple had been burnt down by two time battles, one was attack by Sohun Ise Shinkuro and the other by Hideyoshi Toyotomi when he attacked Nirayama Castle. Accordingly, the present main temple was built in Edo Era. In Grand Temple, Statue of Amitabha Buddha as the principal image, Three Statues of Fudohson (Deities), Statue of Bisyamonten and its inner wood card with written name of sculptor are put as important exhibits. Above all, the inner card is historically rare thing proving the fact an expert sculptor of Buddha Unkei had ever went to east out of Nara. The statue of Amitabha Buddha has the artificial eyes which Unkei invented. In the premises of Ganjyoju-In Temple, there are graves of Tokimasa Hojyo and Chachamaru, Pond of Head Washing. Statue of Amitabha Buddha, Standing Statue of Fudohmyouou (Acalanatha in Sanskrit), Staue of Fudhson Konkaradohji, two Inner Cards within Fudohmyouou Bisyamonten are registered as national important cultural properties. The Superior, Ganjyoju-In Temple |
Here,Yaehime Itoh Sank In The River Yaehime, fourth daughter of Sukechika Itoh had lived in melancholily and she at last made her mind to run away from the annex of her father's residence to Yoritomo's place, being accompanied by six maids on July 16, Jisho 4 (1180). She gave a birth Chizumaru, as a son of Yoritomo but Chizumaru was sacrificed in the situation. She had been confined in the annex. When she arrived at a building where Yoritomo was hidden, a porter cold-broodedly refused as he knew the fact Yoritomo and Masako already fell in love. Alas as young lady Yaehime had no way of returning home, she sank herself in a rapid stream of Shinju-ga-Fuchi of Kanogawa River together with the six maids. Since then eight hundred years have passed and Kanogawa River had changed its basin. One just can see a weaken stream and imagin Yaehime's tragic love. In the premises of this temple, you will see the oldest stone tower "Five Folded Tower" (1302) in Shizuoka Prefecture, Buddha carved on a criff (1363), and others as rare historical moniments. Section of Industry & Sightseeng, Nirayama Town Keeping Group of Yaehime's Story |
Temple Praying For Yaehime This temple prays for Yaehime Itoh who fell in love with Yoritomo and deserted, and sank herself to death in a rapid stream. In the center of the hall a wooden statue of Yaehime is enshrined and is put a massing tower under it. The huge tree is called "Nagi" at right side in front of the hall means "peace" and "gentle". As leaves of Nagi can not be torn across, it is said that if you have it as a charm, you and your family will be happy. The Stone for Desire at right side is said that if you hit it by the number of your age, your desire will visit you without fail. It is a oral tradition since old time. |
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Figure 9 Shinju-In Temple |
Figure 10 Yaehime who run away home to go to Yoritomo but refused, sank herself in Kanogawa River with her six maids.The temple enshrines them in a seperate temple. |
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Kyotokuzan Hojyoji Temple Kencyoji Temple School, Rinzaisyu The eighth Place of 33 Spiritual Places Enshrines Statue of Kanzeon Bodhisattiva Registered by Shizuoka Prefecture The temple first was named "Kan-On-In" (Amittabha Temple in Englsih) ,as the statue of Amittabha came across the sea from China 1,200 years ago and was enshrined Ema. Tokimasa Hojyo heartfully respect Amittabha and changed the temple's name to "Hojyoji Temple". Since then his descendants had built the other temples in the premises and had donated lands too. Enshrines Statue of Amittabha Registered by Nation as A Rare Product of Art, and by Shizuoka Prefecture as A Cultural Property The art product is presumed to be a work by Unkei in Kamakura Era. When Yasuchiyo, Yoshitoki Ema Koshiroh's eldest son died by an accident of being bitten by a big snake, Yoshitoki built seven halls or temples in the premises, and he made Unkei calve the temple's principal image. This statue is called "Mu-Amidabutsu"(only one Amitabha Buddha, because there are no work by him other than this. "Botan Choh Bun Syuh"(embroidered drop curtain describing peonies and birds) Registered by Shizuoka Prefecture as Cultural Property The embroideries were donated by Yoritomo's Masako Hojyo. They were great work consisting of three embroideries describing flowers of colourful peonies, fruits trees, deer in trees and grasses, peacocks,etc. Hall Enshrined Kannon (Godess of Mercy) The temle is a building adopting the style of old time that makes you imagine what it was. Grave of Yoshitoki Hojyo See the board in front of it. Six Stone Guardian Deities of Children The roof is stone tiled. Historical Documents of Hojyoji Temple The temple keeps many old documents such as ones by Ashikaga Shogun Clan, by Different Hojyo Clan After Hojyo in Kamakura Era,etc. including ones allowing the temple and donating land. |
Graves of Yoshitoki Hojyo and His Wife Yoshitoki Hojyo was the second son of Tokimasa. Yoritomo Minamoto's wife Masako Hojyo was his elder sister. As he had groun up at the residence in Ema, he called himself "Yoshitoki Ema Koshiroh". He followed Yoritomo with his father Tokimasa and his brother Munetoki, since he raised force, and he gained distinguished services. After the Third Kamakura Shogun Sanetomo Minamoto was assasinated by an intrigue and Minamoto Clan's linage died out, he made Yoritsune Fujiwara, a court noble in Kyoto sit the seat of Shogun and he himself sitted the seat of Aid to Shogun. Yoritsune was a great-grand son of Yoritomo's elder sister. As Yoshitoki himself very much wielded power, Former Emperor Gotoba got anger and issued a message from the throne to subjugate Yoshitoki in Shokyu 3 (1221). Yoshitoki made his son Yasutoki and his young brother Tokifusa attack up Kyoto by heading a big force and beated. He abolished then Emperor and exiled three Former Emperors Gotoba, Juntoku and Tsuchimikado to Sado, Oki and Tsushima Ilands. This event later had been called "Shokyuh-no-Hen"(Disturbance of Shokyuh). Yoshitoki suddenly died three years after the disturbance, when he was 62 years old. His eldest son and others built Yasutoki's grave here. |
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Figure 11 The entrance gate of Hojyoji Temple. |
Figure 12 These two graves burys Yasutoki Hojyo and his wife. |
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Tarozaemon Egawa, Great
Character At The End Of Edo Era
Now let me write about the historical places in the
opposit side of Izu Hakone Railway. There are two
historical places of Tarozaemon Egawa who acted
Governmental Officer of Tokugawa (Edo) Shogunate.
One is a reverberatory furnace which he built,
the other is his residence.
Getting off the train for Shuzenji at Nirayama
Station and walk out the wicket, you will see a sign
showing the way to a newly paved road leading to
Egawa's residence and Hirugakojima where once
Yoritomo was exiled 800 years ago. Cross the
railway and proceed the fine road for about fifteen
to twenty minuts. Then you will see the historical
monument of Hirugakojima on your right side, where Yoritomo was inprisoned
for seventeen years,
being monitored by Taira Clan.
Hirugakojima was one of the middle sandbanks
in great Kanogawa River, where leeches were living.
Tokimasa Hojyo who was heading a strong clan in
this district was taking role of monitoring Yoritomo
together with Kanetaka Taira who acted Taira
Clan's officer to Izu. However the trouble began
with his daughter Masako. As she fell in love with
Yoritomo, Tokimasa could not help but making
Yoritomo privately live in his own residence. Just
when Yoritomo did so, Yaehime Itoh ran away from
home loving Yoritomo. Torturing himself to deceive,
Tokimasa arranged the marriage of convenience
making Masako marry with Kanetaka Taira but
resitive horse Masako escaped to Yoritomo who
was kept at a distance, on the very day of wedding.
Yoritomo and Tokimasa decided to raise force,
and otherwise Kanetaka must attack them.
Yoritomo raised force and only less than ten
warriers suddenly attacked Kanetaka when many
of his retainers were absent for going to see the
annual aniversarry of Mishima Taisya Shrine.
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Figure 13 The office part of Tarozaemon Egawa's residence. In the living part the descendants are living now. |
Figure 14 Tarozaemon Egawa who acted governmental officer to Izu at the end of Edo Era built a reverberratory furnace to produce artilleries. |
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Egawa Did Inventions; Some Were Japan's First
When you proceed straight on the fine road, it
will lead you to a non-paved mountain-like alley.
Seeing a public primary school on your right side,
you will come to a cliff that seem to be a castle
wall. Please continue to proceed for a while and
you will suddenly see a large pond. This is Shinsui
Park before Egawa's Residence, Officer of Edo
Shogunate in Izu Region. If you go to the right,
you will arrive at the ruin site of Nirayama Castle
which Sohun Hojyo built.
In the Tarozaemon Egawa's residence, you can
not enter to the living place, as his descendants
still live. The part of wooden office building and
historical constructions were recently repaired
and recovered and are open for publick. The price
of entrance ticket is \300. And if you see the
exhibition of the town operating Nirayama Historical
Museum neibouring Egawa's residence, you will buy
a common ticket pricing \400 (for adult and \200
for child) for both buildings. In a leaflet handed at
the entrance of the residence, you will read the
sentences describing its history as the following
in short:
"Egawa Clan belonged to Seiwa Genji (Minamoto)
Clan, and its originater was Yorichika Uno who was
the second son of Mitsunaka Minamoto. Chikaharu
the sixth generation after Yorichika defeated by
participating to Former Emperor Sutoku's force at
Disturbance of Hohgen, and his grand son Chikanobu
came down to Izu accompanied by thirteen retainers.
Harunobu a son of Chikanobu participated in
Yoritomo's when he raised force in 1180. After
Genji Restoration, Yoritomo gave Chikanobu
the land in Nirayama. The thirteen retainers who
followed Chikanobu also settled in around
Kanaya near here, and their descendants have
lived until now.
Uno Clan had hardened foundation as a powerful
family here through Kamakura and Muromachi
Eras, and it changed family name to Egawa
taking the name of a branch stream of Kanogawa
River in the middle of 15th Century.
When Sohun Hojyo invaded to dominate Middle Izu
in 1493, the 23rd Hidezumi offered him a land where
Sohun built Nirayama Castle. The successive five
heads of Egawa Clan had acted Sohun's staff officer
since then. Hidenaga, the 28th became a retainer
for Iyeyasu Tokugawa, the First Shogun of Edo
Shogunate. Iyeyasu put Izu District under direct
control of the shogunate and appointed the
successive heads of Egawa Clan as govermental
officer of the shogunate".
Tarozaemon Hidetatsu Egawa (1801-1855), the 36th
was so famous as a great man of knowledge at the
end of Edo Era. According to the leaflet I refered to
earlier, he learned Dutch language, deeply knew
foreign affaires, and made a proposition to guard
national coast to the shogunate. He made the
proposition to found the system of warring and
farming and the way of its training, study of western
artiraly and its training, study of measurement and
its exsercise, building a fort called "Odaiba" in Tokyo
Bay, building a reverberatory in Nirayama, baking
Japan's first bread as food for soldiers, Japan's
first shipbuilding warship of western style in Heta
Village and its supervising, and education of
Egawa way. All were things that he had done.
When training farm soldiers, he made them sing
famous "Nohe-Bushi" singing "Fuji-no shirayukya
nohe, Asahi-de-Tokete, Tokete Nagarete nohe,
Mishima ni Sosogu" (Oh! White snow on Mt.Fuji,
Melted by the Sun-light, Oh! Melted, And Gushing
out in Mishima) to inspire them.
There are statues of two farm soldiers standing
in front of Mishima City Hall near Mishima Taisya
Shrine and it was the place where soldiers training
was done.
Nagaoka Hot Springs and Kona Hot
Springs Places
If you select to arrive at Nagaoka Station on Izu
Hakone Railway train, to get off the station, and
go straight, you will come to a corner of the
street. If you go to the right, you will walk into
the zone called "Kona Hot Springs Place". Kona
is an old hot springs place where a historical
place named "Honjin-Gensen-Ato (Honjin's
Original Hot Spring Gushing Place)" exists,
to which Yoritomo often visited to bathe in his
time of exile by Taira Clan. In the place, several
tens hotels and inns supplying hot spring
service including an inn named "Honjin". By the
way, the term "Honjin" was used to mean in old
time "a hotel some landlord stays".
New Hot Springs Place Discovered
On the other hand Nagaoka Hot Springs Place
was discovered in Meiji Era. It is situated in the
deeper zone after you turned to left at the corner
which I refered to earlier, and further turn to the
right at the first coner to come.
Larger hotels, inns than ones in Kona are operating
in Nagaoka Hot Springs Place. When one says
"Nagaoka" however, it includes both places.
Now a day, even traditional inns began to supply
"bathing hot spring only service" at very cheap
price to survive in the middst of the long deflation.
Nanzan-Soh (http://www.tokaikanko.co.jp/), for example, the traditional
and famous big inn since
Meiji Era changed its operating policy and is now
supplying "staying only"(price: \6,000 for one
person one night, \5,000 per one person for two
to three persons, and \4,500 per one person for
four to five persons) and "bathing hot spring only"
(price: \500 for one person). Nanzan-Soh now
does not offer food service except breakfirst free
(toast and coffee for visitors stayed one night ).
May 1, 2004
TO PART 1: MISHIMA CITY
TO PART 2: SHUZENJI TOWN
TO PART 3: NIRAYAMA TOWN
TO KAWAGOE CITY
TO HAGI CITY
TO PAGE SHOWING CONTENTS
YOUR IMPRESSION